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LOS ROQUES

"It's hard not to notice that Instagram portrays these spots as kitesurfing Shangri-Las—all perfect flat water and supermodel-looking riders. The scenery is simply breathtaking."

Los Roques is just as good as it looks on Instagram.

It is as safe as it gets. The next question is usually: How do I get there? And is it not dangerous to travel to Venezuela?

The answer to that used to be difficult: Yes, as a tourist you should currently avoid traveling to the mainland. Until recently, you had to enter Maiquetia (an airport city on the coast near Caracas) for at least a few hours or even a night, as that was the only place where the small island hoppers flying to Los Roques departed from.

But that has now changed, and with it, our position on assisting foreign kiters with their trip to Los Roques.

Los Roques Archipelago

 

Located 168 km north of La Guaira is the Los Roques Archipelago. Due to its exceptional beauty and ecological significance, it was declared a National Park in 1972. From the air, the sight of the Caribbean's azure sea is truly unforgettable.

The archipelago consists of approximately 50 islands, the largest of which is Gran Roque, where the airport is also located. Other islands include Francisqui, Nordisqui, Madrisqui, and Crasqui. With the exception of Gran Roque, all the islands are uninhabited.

What makes Gran Roque so unique are the numerous sandbanks, lagoons, the crystal-clear water sparkling in every color, and the white (coral) sand beaches.

The Kiter’s Paradise Reimagined

Los Roques is an archipelago located about 170 km north of Caracas in the Caribbean Sea. It is a National Park and belongs to the Federal Dependencies (Dependencia Federal) of Venezuela.

The character of the National Park is strictly enforced. New construction is minimal to non-existent, and only 1,471 people live on the single inhabited island (according to the 2011 census). Only small aircraft can land on the airstrip, which has completely protected the islands from mass tourism.

The building boom, when the economy was humming at the oil price peak of $125 per barrel (Venezuela's economy relies heavily on oil exports), and the spending sprees of the "Chávez era" have largely passed Los Roques by without a trace.

Venezuela was long a windsurfer's paradise (El Yaque), and in the early years of kite surfing, the same was true for Coche. In recent years, Isla Margarita has been removed from the maps of most, if not all, travel agencies, and Coche's perfect offshore beach is unfortunately no longer as vast and gust-free as it once was (due to hotel bungalow complexes).

Los Roques, on the other hand, was never truly the destination for masses of kiters or other tourists, but group tours and individual Europeans always found their way there.

This route was quite discouraging for most Europeans, as there was no way around the Maiquetia (Caracas) airport and usually an overnight stay there. That has now changed. Due to hyperinflation, domestic tourism—which previously kept Los Roques afloat with its few beds—is finally running out of steam. As a result, a new route has been launched that brings kiters directly to Los Roques via Aruba.

Venezuela has a very active local kite scene, recruited from the former middle class, the old upper class, and occasionally the new elite.

Los Roques hosts the coolest beach parties, the most beautiful girls, the best yachts, and showcases the newest kites.

For stressed Venezuelans who can still afford it, Los Roques is paradise and an escape from the chaotic daily life in Caracas, Valencia, and other cities.

The archipelago has always been a magnet for expats and free spirits, many of them from Italy, which has allowed Los Roques to develop an artistic, tasteful, and unique style. In the beautiful posadas (inns), guests are treated regally and served fresh cuisine sourced directly from the sea. The lack of imported products has fostered a very creative local culinary scene.

 

From a Kiter’s Perspective:

 

Kiting is not permitted off Gran Roque (the inhabited "big rock") to avoid obstructing planes and boats. This means that all kiting takes place off one of the many surrounding islands and sandbanks (Cayos) of the archipelago. Consequently, you always need a boat for everything and will be out on the water all day. This makes self-guided exploration not exactly easy, but it is also part of the charm of this island complex.

Most of the (better) posadas offer transfers to the surrounding islands and provide tourists with a large cooler filled with drinks (including the obligatory after-session beer) and lunch (often surprisingly good and creative).

  • Francisqui and Cayo Frances are the closest kite spots. You can easily reach them with any boat. They are superb for foiling and twin-tip riding, offering a huge flat-water area. Off Cayo Frances, there is also a great wave break (when it's running—it’s called La Gillette or "The Razor Blade" because of the reef) and a restaurant.

  • Saqui Saqui is the home spot of Playlosroques. It's just a large sandbank with a mini-island and a small natural harbor. This is where most of the parties, lessons, and pro-rider showcases happen. Many downwinders end here.

  • Sardinas is much further away. It's a great starting point for downwinders. Depending on the tide, it has a giant sandbank and is awesome for foiling.

  • Vapor is a few kilometers upwind from Saqui Saqui, has a superb flat-water area, and is usually less crowded.

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